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The cable from the auxiliary battery goes to the unpainted stud. The cable from the start battery goes to the stud on the SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR with the painted RED dot.
#Battery isolator wiring diagram manuals#
Repeat the above process to the positive terminal of the auxiliary battery.Ģ.2 Related Manuals / Resources WIRIMG DIAGRAM.Begin from the centre of the mounting plate and run the cable along the inner guard and firewall to the positive terminal of the starting battery (be careful to keep the wiring away from any moving parts). Take the 6000mm length of red cable, which has been terminated at both ends.Secure the two (2) blind holes of the base with the short 4mm screws.Remove the lower mounting plate from the SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR to use as a template and mark the position of the two (2) holes to be drilled.Select a location for the SMART BATTERY ISOLATOR that is easily accessible and will not have the cables running near exhausts and is as close as possible to the starting battery.Isolate the starting battery by removing the negative terminal.2x Red heat shrink lx Black heat shrink.1 圆00mm length of 10mm sq black earth cable terminated at both ends.1 圆000mm length of 10mm sq red cable terminated at both ends.Lay out your Smart Battery Kit and check that all the components are in the kit You should have:.
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These instructions assume you have purchased and mounted you auxiliary battery (preferably a deep cycle)in your vehicle. Crimping or electricians pliers for terminal crimping Cutting pliers,side cutters or cable stripper to cut and strip the cable There have been threads in the past discovering this. and the NCV3 Sprinter electronics get very upset when 'isolated' from the alternator. With that gadget, the batteries (and the Sprinter's electronics) cannot "see" the alternator. they don't have a relay, they depend upon semiconductors that only allow current flow in one direction (in TrippLite's drawing, from the alternator via separate paths to each battery). Ignore them.įootnote: yeah, there are "diode isolators". you'll see things like "diode isolators" out there. what model year? (it affects what and where the "D+" terminal looks like under the seat) (all of those links includes the "helps Sprinter Forum with a few pennies" tag) I would add a fuse between the starter battery and the Stinger (MB does when they supply their Auxiliary Battery option). The BlueSea ACR simply wouldn't have the D+ connection, just the two battery wires. Here's how the Stinger would get wired in (the red wire already exists in your Sprinter): Those will not work in an NCV3 Sprinter (and aren't good in a T1N).((see footnote))
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The 2nd question, of course, is "how many amps?"Īdded: Looking at the TrippLite manual, i see they suggest (as it happens) a diode isolator. alternator running, or shore-power charging). If "charges both ways", then something like the BlueSea ACR (automatic control relay) magically joins the batteries when either side gets to 13.5 volts (i.e. If "only", then something like a Stinger, with its coil powered by the "D+" signal you'll find under the driver's seat (comes live when the alternator is actually running). (isolator and separator can be considered synonyms, and it's (at heart) just a relay).((see footnote))Īfter adding the footnote, i should 'fess up and say that the Stinger is an "isolation relay".īy "control", i mean do you ONLY want it to join when the engine is running, or do you want it to also join when you've got shore power charging the house? You've got one initial decision to make: do you want to control the isolator, or do you want it to make its own (perhaps problematical) decisions about when to join the batteries?